Brennan McNulty

Oakland Community College

Copyright November 8, 2010

Some of my earliest flavor memories involved pasties.  While visiting my grandparents near Ahmeek in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula during the summers between 1967 and 1970, my grandfather baked up the pies each time we visited, or we’d drive up the road a piece to eat them at a local roadside stands.  Perhaps it was the pungent smell, or the bitterness of the rutabagas, but I had to bury the beasts in ketchup to be able to stomach them.  Little did I know at the time what a staple the pasty is for ‘Yoopers,’ and how I’d grow to respect the history of, and actually enjoy Michigan’s pasties. 

The origin of pasties has been the subject of debate for many years, with a rivalry occurring between the Cornish, Finns, Swedes, Irish, Poles, Germans, Scots, Italians, and French; many a group claiming themselves as the originator, and each contributing something different in the manner of preparation, ingredients, and seasonings. In general, the pasty is a turnover with a hard, crusty shell.  Historically, they contain at least potatoes and onions, and various meats and vegetables as affordable or available.  Different ethnicities use names such as the Finnish piiraat, the French tourtiere, and the Mexican empanada to describe similar products, but the earliest historical references to pasties appear to be with the Cornish in England.  One differentiating factor of pasties is the filling ingredients are never cooked before wrapping them in the pastry.  In Cornwall, they referred to pasties as Oggin, or Tiddy Oggin, and they were revered for use as a rugged, portable lunch in the Cornish tin mines.

It is rumored the Vikings brought the pasty to Cornwall around the time William the Conqueror invaded in the late 11^th century.   One of the earliest references to pasties in writing occurred around 1300, with an early version of “Le Viandier,” – before the birth of Guillaume Tirel (Taillevent), whose name was ‘attached’ to the cookbook title later.   References to pasty recipes were frequent between the 14^th and 17^th centuries in France and England.  Pasties were also made reference to during Henry VIII’s reign, in Chaucer’s “Canterbury Tales,” and in Shakespeare’s “The Merry Wives of Windsor” and in “All’s Well That Ends Well.”  Regardless of the actual origin, Michigan was the recipient of pasties as a result of Cornish immigrants who went to upper Michigan to support the Copper rush of the mid 1800s.

Some fascinating folklore and facts surround the pasty.  The crimped crust is an important feature, where the miners initials were embossed in the crust for identification, and the miner could eat the guts of the pasty while gripping the crimped crust with their dirty, arsenic contaminated hands.  They simply threw the crimped crust on the ground, but that doesn’t mean the crust just went to waste.  Legend has it that the crust was food for mine gremlins that would cause accidents and cave-ins if they didn’t get fed their pasty crusts.  Additionally, a pasty which could be dropped unharmed down a mine shaft was considered a good pasty. A poem written by Walter F. Gries of Marquette reveals the fondness for pasties written in the semblance of a Cornish dialect:

I dearly love a pasty, a ‘ot leaky one;

With mayt, turmit and taty, h’onyon and parsley in ‘un

The crus’ be made weth suet, shaped like ‘alf a moon;

Crinkly h’edges, freshly baked ‘e es alway gone too soon!

Pasties have evolved over the years, and in addition to the ground versus diced meat versions, variations are expanding to include different meats, fruits, breakfast versions, philly-cheese-steak versions, all of which are worth a try.  Current versions are also catering to the more health conscious, replacing suet with vegetable shortenings, using whole grains, and providing vegetarian versions as well.

Pasties have gone from being an ethnic food to become a symbol of an entire region.  When most Michiganders think of pasties, they think of the Upper Peninsula.  When ‘yoopers’ identify a unique characteristic of the region, ‘we’ve got pasties’ is a likely response.  The limited popularity of pasties across the United States is surprising, based on their comfort-food appeal and portability for a nation on-the-go.  Perhaps it’s time to bring the pasty out of the mines, experiment with it, and make it become a favorite of all Americans.  I know it’s a favorite of mine already, even though I still like it served with ketchup.

Roots of Michigan Bistro is now a registered business.  Here’s a logo concept I’ll be using for my business plan document, and possibly for the website and signage.  What do you think?

Powered by Twitter Tools

Recipe Project

for

Garde Manger I

by

Brennan McNulty

CUL 1130

Culinary Studies Institute

Oakland Community College 

February 21, 2011
 

SPRING PORK LOIN SALAD

Thin cut Duroc pork loin chops soaked in strawberry-apple-jack marinade, with balsamic onion marmalade atop a bed of mixed baby greens and spinach. Served with a house strawberry vinaigrette dressing, pine nuts, feta, and farm fresh fruit..

SPRING PORK LOIN SALAD

Yield:  6 Salads

Critique:

This salad had a wonderful balance of textures and colors.  Guests indicated the choice of meat did not match the dish,  however, as even though it was well marinated, the pork did not match the light and tender ‘feel’ of the rest of the dish.  Using slices of turkey breast worked much better to round out the dish – as tested the following night. 

The strawberry vinaigrette tied together the flavors of the greens, apples, and the textures of the meat, nuts, and cheese beautifully, although its color could have been more attractive – perhaps by adding a few drops of grenadine.  The sauce, basically a strawberry jam, was a big hit with the guests, and was essential for dipping the pork.

The onion marmalade was noted as being a bit heavy based on the balsamic vinegar used, but either lightening it with some berry juice, or using another meat, such as pheasant or another game bird would enhance the marmalade’s belonging in the dish.

Prior to being added as a true menu item in my restaurant, seasonal selections of fresh Michigan fruits would be highlighted.  Pheasant, game hen, or another light poultry would substitute for the pork, unless a lighter cut/preparation becomes suitable.  The appropriate blending of marinade, sauce, and dressing, with a central fresh fruit theme is a big plus for an entrée salad such as this, and is likely to become a staple preparation method for many salads which may appear on my restaurant menu.

Powered by Twitter Tools

Powered by Twitter Tools

Powered by Twitter Tools

Powered by Twitter Tools

Powered by Twitter Tools

Powered by Twitter Tools

Download the app: #

Powered by Twitter Tools